It’s an exciting time for the applicator segment. While brushes, sponges and spatulas have always been a conduit in helping beauty and personal care customers achieve a peak product-use experience, leaps and bounds have been made to improve their sustainability. Covid has also left a lasting imprint. Pandemic-idled customers who’ve turned to taking care of their own hair, skin and nail treatments want the right tools for the job. What’s more, innovatively hygienic applicators are prepping to be a bridge back to the retail beauty counter, because as we now know, Covid has made the days of dipping a finger into community tester products obsolete.

“While there has been a reduced demand for disposable applicators as a result of stores being closed, we believe that consumers will be excited to get back into retail stores to sample and test skincare and makeup again,” says Sari Sternschein, vice president, marketing and product development, Qosmedix. “The pandemic has increased our awareness of methods of contamination and single use hygienic applicators provide that security.”

She adds that because the design of an applicator plays such an important role in effectively applying a product, she anticipates that more applicators used for sampling and testing will incorporate the design of the primary packaging into the sampling vehicle.

Improved Safety & Cleanliness

The demand for safer, more hygienic applicators extends beyond the retail environment. Beauty consumers want these options for home beauty treatments, too.

Frédéric Duquet, head of global R&D and innovation at GEKA, says interest in clean products like antibacterial fibers for mascara brushes, antibacterial flock for lip gloss applicators or sterile applications will remain long after the Covid-19 pandemic is over.

To that end, GEKA has recently launched “ready-to-go” applicators that utilize micro bristle technology. “The basic idea behind developing the micro-bristle applicators is to apply liquid or semi-solid substances to the skin with greater precision and hygiene,” Duquet says. “Application with cotton buds, flocked applicators, nail varnish brushes, or even fingers are neither very hygienic nor very precise, [and] the risk of fibers’ adherence hinders full sterility.”

GEKA has utilized the know-how of parent company Sulzer´s healthcare division in the development of seven new micro bristle applicators, including three ready-to-go concepts to the beauty sector that are ideal for the hygienic and precise delivery of spot correction, anti-aging or serum formulations. Included in the range is the fusionAPPLICATOR, which is comprised of delicate micro bristles plus a reservoir zone with no bristles in the middle for viscous formulas.

Cosmogen approaches its creation of new applicators with a three-pronged strategy of safety, sustainability, and skin expertise. Maud Lelièvre, marketing and communication manager,

Cosmogen, reports that the pandemic inspired Cosmogen to accelerate the development of its antibacterial brushes, which can be used in tandem with or apart from tubes. The company’s Antibacterial Squeeze’n Tint & Refill range blends a brush made of fibers that are treated with an antibacterial agent that’s proven to kill three bacteria: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Escherichia coli.

“It is designed with a patented open/close rotary head system that allows dispensing, application with no finger contact, and then cleaning, while protecting the formula,” explains Lelièvre.

3D beauty sponges also represent an opportunity. “As consumers are more open to maintaining the hygienic integrity of their products, 3D sponges are no exception as they can last a long time,” says Eugenia Savini, marketing manager, Asquan Group, who notes her company has received increasing requests about applicators with antibacterial additives. “Being able to add antibacterial or antimicrobial additives with true efficacy to sponges will definitely be appealing to many.” 

ICS has designed several new products that embrace the trend for built-in, hygienic, touch-free application for both color cosmetics and skincare. The company’s silicone tip applicators have been in high demand. Available in various shapes and functionalities for both lip and face formulations, the soft, flexible, silicone tip applicator easily glides over the skin, making the application process smooth and effortless. “A silicone applicator is also easily washable making it an ideal applicator option for skincare products,” says Eleanor Bunting, marketing manager.

The newest silicone tip innovations at ICS include 16mmD and 19mmD tubes with curved or slanted silicone tip applicators and a twist locking feature that ensures the formulation only dispenses when the lock is in the open position. They are an ideal packaging option for more viscous formulations for lip, face and acne care.

ICS recently worked with Arcadia Consumer Healthcare to custom design their exclusive duo end Opti-Nail 2-in-1 Fungal Nail Repair plus Antifungal system.

“The duo-end flush fit cylindrical pack was created with optimum functionality in mind, as one side includes a brush applicator that evenly distributes the antifungal medication for full, even coverage on the skin around the nail, helping protect and treat the skin around the nail,” explains Dave Thompson, director of technical and design at ICS. “The opposite side which includes nail brightener and revitalizing formulation has a unique pointed, angled, felt tip applicator that helps to precisely apply the formulation on the nail, to improve nail appearance. The inner PP bottles on both sides provide excellent compatibility with the formulations and the outer sleeve with window provides a sturdy case that is easy to package and sneak a peek at the product inside.”

Consumers typically apply skincare products with their fingers, but beauty tool applicators provide a safer and healthier application experience. In addition to offering anti-microbial treatments for beauty tools, TaikiUSA is focusing on the popularity of the cushion compact trend and designing a comprehensive system that has enhanced formula release and higher restitution. Jan Wilson, the company’s vice president of sales and development, says TaikiUSA’s High-Cellbian Puff applicator is ideal for cushion foundations. “Free of any patent concerns with a luxurious fine-pore surface, this puff ensures a perfectly seamless makeup result,” Wilson says. The Cellbian puff is also available with an anti-bacterial treatment that addresses safety concerns in the application process.”

Multi-Use Functionality

Anisa Telwar Kaicker, founder and CEO, Anisa International, asserts that today’s consumers are seeking beauty products and applicators that deliver the convenience of serving multiple functions. “They are combining tasks and investing in products that are designed beyond a singular purpose,” she says. “The rise of the multi-tasker is an act of rebellion against complicated beauty routines and emphasizes the ability to optimistically embrace less as more.”

Anisa International’s 13-product Universal Multi-Tasker applicator range is designed to be used with multiple products in a single routine, spanning high-pigment makeup products, medium-pigment makeup products, skincare hybrid products, non-pigment skincare products, across the spectrum of powders, liquids and solids.

FM Brush Company is a fine art brush manufacturer that has nearly a century of experience in creating brushes for artists, whether they work with makeup, oils or watercolor. The company creates its own synthetic fiber blends in its own facility. “We have been working with synthetics since the 1960’s and have created blends that react like the natural counterparts,” says Jacqueline Mink, executive director of retail and cosmetic sales. “We just added a beautiful synthetic bristle to our lineup that looks, feels and performs seamlessly.”

The company’s latest patented innovation is a customizable, Angled Chisel Brush crafted with plenty of built-in flexibility. “Brushes are the tools for a creative industry and this brush offers a multitude of possibilities,” Mink says. “It’s ideal for contouring, lifting, sculpting, blending and more.”

The brush is angled on both sides, can be made from a variety of synthetic materials, and accommodates customized handle shapes and deco options. The chiseled shape is patented but can be custom sized for any application, large or small.

Emphasis on the Eyes

If there’s one beauty lesson the pandemic has driven home, it’s that wearing a mask makes it especially important to emphasize what the mask doesn’t cover: the eyes.

The eye product category represents a deeply nuanced opportunity for applicator suppliers. Of course, eyeshadows and liners call for specific brushes but a fascinating aspect of this category’s brush innovation centers on delivering the specific promises of mascara. Whether a brand’s formula is made to volumize, lengthen, curl or separate, there’s definitely a mascara brush/wand combo to help make it happen.

GEKA recently collaborated with Yves Rocher to create a 3-in-1, single gesture brush for the brand’s new Intense Metamorphose Mascara. The brush is meant to help the formula impart extreme lash volume, curl and lengthening for 24-hour hold. Using GEKA´s Longwave fiber, the hourglass-shaped fibers coat every lash by reaching from root to tip for maximum curl and lengthening. GEKA’s Duquet says the arcs of the fiber surface also act as a bulk reservoir, depositing more formula onto the lashes for defined volume. Further, GEKA’s SEPA technology helps prevent clumping.

While working to bring extension to its patented ZTIP Technology bringing twisted wire brushes, MIXCreative LLC helped Izzy Beauty Inc. realize the ideal brush for its IZZY Zero Waste Mascara which launched this past April.

According to Izzy, the mascara is the first zero waste, certified CarbonNeutral mascara. It’s packaged in medical-grade, American-made stainless-steel tubes that are designed to be cleaned and refilled over 10,000 times, so consumers “never have to throw away another mascara.” And thanks to reusable mailers, even the shipping process is zero waste.

“We created a beautiful, natural volume brush which has both reservoirs and eco fibers to benefit the environmental story of an industry-leading, decarbonized brand,” says Chris Tarling, founder of MIXCreative, who describes the project as a labor or love. “The pack, stems, wipers and brushes were all custom, and designed by MIXCreative.”

SGB Packaging Group represents Ponzini, the manufacturer that supplies design-registered mascara and eyebrow brush applicators to companies including L’Oréal, Coty, LVMH, Estée Lauder and Chanel. SBG tells Beauty Packaging that Ponzini uses specific (and undisclosed) testing protocols to ensure its brushes meet its brand partners’ mascara claims for volume, length, curl, definition and separation.

During 2020 the company developed a new generation of “all-in-one” mascara applicators that feature different shapes on the same brush. These new brushes join a large family of tried-and-true injected applicators, fiber applicators and applicators with specialty trimming. Brands can choose from a variety of options including Textured Fibers and Wavy Filaments designed to coat the lashes from roots to tips, Small Applicators with soft fiber to capture and volumize even the smallest lashes, and Big Applicators with solid, stiff fibers that deliver volume and definition to all lashes.

Sustainability Advancements 

The push for heightened sustainability is ongoing and ever-present. Consumers are vocal in their preference to purchase from companies that have clear sustainability goals.

“Many large corporations including LVMH, Estée Lauder, Shiseido and L’Oréal are taking the lead and implementing corporate-wide social responsibility initiatives that will have a major impact on future product development—it will also have a ripple effect across the industry and others will move in this direction if they have not already,” observes Qosmedix’s Sternschein. “Overall, it will be a positive change for the beauty industry and will help reduce the environmental impact on the planet,” she continues.

With the goal of using sustainable materials to help reduce the level of virgin plastic production, Qosmedix is preparing for the launch of its new FSC Certified Paper Handled Cosmetic Applicators, which accompanies the company’s existing line of Bamboo Cosmetic Applicators. The company is additionally developing new eco-friendly technologies for sponges, as well as safe biodegradable plastics.

Asquan is also offering brush/applicator handles made of PCR plastic, PLA, biodegradable, bamboo and FSC wood handles, as well as vegan and glue-less brushes, and water-based paints for handles. Its latest collection features FSC wood handles and synthetic hair infused with collagen for antibacterial appeal.

What’s not easy is creating packaging that’s both glamorous and sustainable. “Consumers and brands are aware of the importance of the environment, but neither is willing to do without luxury finishes or metallized decoration,” comments Rosa Porras Mansilla, marketing/communication manager, Virospack.

Dropper assemblies are currently shining amidst the collective consumer love for serums and facial oils.  When French beauty brand Nuxe sought a specialized dropper for its Super Serum [10] Universal Age-defying Concentrate Serum, Virospack delivered.

The Nuxe serum is uniquely formulated with natural hyaluronic acid and enriched with thousands of micro-balls of fractional vegetable oils and the company arrived at a final package consisting of a 30ml capacity, transparent molded and weighted glass bottle with custom green screen printing that doesn’t obscure the fascinating texture of the product. The serum is dispensed via a transparent pipette using a gold metal shell covered push-button dropper assembly. The high-end configuration also includes a wiper in the neck of the bottle to ensure the pipette is clean after each use.

Among Cosmogen’s latest developments is the patented R-Brush with an elegant FSC wood handle that’s ferrule-free and therefore without aluminum. Its tufts are made of 75% recycled PET fibers (R-PET), which the company says reduces its carbon footprint by 55% compared to a traditional brush.

“By 2030 all plastic packaging within the EU will need to be recyclable or reusable and consumers are looking, as a priority, for sustainable packaging and tools,” says Sara Zanafredi, CEO, Pennelli Faro, which has concentrated its efforts on producing sustainable innovation in cosmetic applicators for the last five years with the goal of creating tools that are sustainable without compromising quality, formula compatibility or aesthetics.

The company’s family of ECOSOPHY sustainable brushes includes three eco-friendly applicators. The most recent addition called SOLO—is a patented, mono-material brush that’s 100% recycled and recyclable.

Cassandra Boler, director of marketing, Cosmopak, posits that the ongoing sustainability focus in the applicator realm is compelling suppliers to diversify their offerings to meet varied needs. “Clients are seeking alternatives to the virgin plastic parts of beauty tools such as post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic, coffee ground or straw resin, wood and other sustainable materials,” she says. “Because of the competitive beauty tool space, brands can differentiate their offering with a plethora of customizable options—from custom colors, materials, stitching, and shapes, the options are endless and better for our planet.”